Cleaning the Inferno Tankomizer

[clmntch]

I'm not sure that I've seen this method for cleaning the tankomizers on this forum... and I'm not quite sure why I haven't. But, has anyone tried to clean their tankomizer with the spike/wick plate detached? I initially thought that the wick was the issue. However, it seems to be a combination of a dirty wick, clogged mesh and dirty coil that causes the tankomizer to draw hard and lose flavor. I'm almost certain that a tankomizer is not dead until the coil is gone. For the most part they are just soo clogged that they are unusable.

What I did was:
1) Remove the spike plate
2) Burn the wick until it is white again. The wick will burn like a candle at first and draw the juice out of the spike.
3) Blow on the tankomizer to flush as much juice out as possible (without the spike plate so that there is no fear of dislodging the wick)
4) Nuke some water in the microwave for about 2.5 minutes (with plastic spoon, so that the water doesn't super heat).
5) drop the spike plate into the nuked water.
6) drop the tankomizer into the water.
7) repeat 4-6 until you can no longer see stuffs (and by "stuffs" I mean something that looks like a clear oil; most likely the juice residue that is clogging your mesh) seeping from your tankomizer and wick.
8) let the tankomizer and spike plate dry over some period of time (over night should be good enough).
9) re-assemble
10) flood prime with the juice your going to vape first (or if you have pure vg/pg).
11) let it sit to get the mesh and wick fully saturated..
12) Vape (if it tastes hot and watery and produces little vapor, the mesh is still dry and your vaping water from the wick)

I believe that the reason why people are saying that the recommended method for cleaning doesn't work is because there is no way for the dirty stuff to escape the tankomizer with the spike plate attached. The first time you clean your tankomizer with this method you will notice wick fragments, burnt juice and black stuff floating in the water. Something I never noticed using the recommended method.

I have cleaned all 4 of my tankomizers using this method. I've been doing it for about 2 weeks now and I'm very pleased with the results. I initially had 6 tankomizers, but due to experimentation... I have 1 with no wick and another that has a dead coil.

I hope this helps.

Side Notes:
* I suppose I should mention that this is NOT the recommended method for cleaning your tankomizers. And, YES I did void whatever warranty I had. But it was worth it.
* If you don't know what your doing before you do it... DON'T DO IT!
* Do not blow on your tankomizer when the spike plate is attached. If the wick is to somehow get dislodged, it is extremely fragile or "game over man"
* Do not place the spike plate into the water until it has cooled first.
* If your tankomizer is flooding, you are most likely pulling tooooooo hard.
* Removing the o-ring only allows you to flood the tankomizer, IMO.
* I did not dry burn using this method because most of the gunk floated off of the coil when I whirled the water a bit.
* 100% VG Juices WILL clog the wick, and this method will NOT bring them back to like new conditions!

[mulkeyOWNS]

Couple comments I have on this...

And, YES I did void whatever warranty I had. But it was worth it.

The only warranty the tank-o-mizers have is a DOA warranty. If it's dead on arrival, they will replace it. If it's used in any way, it's not replacable.

* Do not blow on your tankomizer when the spike plate is attached. If the wick is to somehow get dislodged, it is extremely fragile or "game over man"

I blow on mine every time I clean it. However I blow from the side of the wick, not the threaded side, and I never have any issues.


Sounds like you found something that works. I wouldn't do it, but some people out there that are a little more ballsy than me can

[jscott1]

Since I have a tanko that tastes burnt but I can't it to work with the recommended way, I would be willing to give this a shot. (at my own risk of course - no warranty, and since I am not using it anyway - there doesn't seem to be much to lose)

Could you explain #2 a bit more - how are you burning the wick? I assume you mean the wick and not the coil.

[clmntch]

Couple comments I have on this...

I blow on mine every time I clean it. However I blow from the side of the wick, not the threaded side, and I never have any issues.


Sounds like you found something that works. I wouldn't do it, but some people out there that are a little more ballsy than me can

Some people have had great luck with blowing out their tankomizers. However, I found myself with a paper towel full of juice and an atomizer that was worse than before. When I took it apart I realized that the mesh around the wick had slipped out partially.

[clmntch]

Since I have a tanko that tastes burnt but I can't it to work with the recommended way, I would be willing to give this a shot. (at my own risk of course - no warranty, and since I am not using it anyway - there doesn't seem to be much to lose)

Could you explain #2 a bit more - how are you burning the wick? I assume you mean the wick and not the coil.

Hold the spike with some tweezers or something, and then burn the wick (bottom of plate) with a lighter. It will burn, like a candle, for a couple of seconds. Once it burns out, continue to burn the wick until it is white again.

[jscott1]

Since I have a tanko that tastes burnt but I can't it to work with the recommended way, I would be willing to give this a shot. (at my own risk of course - no warranty, and since I am not using it anyway - there doesn't seem to be much to lose)

Could you explain #2 a bit more - how are you burning the wick? I assume you mean the wick and not the coil.

Hold the spike with some tweezers or something, and then burn the wick (bottom of plate) with a lighter. It will burn, like a candle, for a couple of seconds. Once it burns out, continue to burn the wick until it is white again.

gotcha, i assumed this is what you meant, but always good to get clarification!!

Thanks!!

[Thommas]

How do you remove the spike plate?

[Artist Boy]

If this tankomizer is within 72 hours old I would not try to remove the plate, as it will void the 72 hour DOA warranty.

Ok that being said and out of the way. Now on to how to tear your stuff apart.

What I do to remove the wick, is take a flat blade screw driver and press it up against the side of the spike, then apply a little bit or pressure. Not to much you are not trying to pop it out in one fail swoop. or you might just break something. Slowly work your away around the spike alternating from one side to the other. Like if you were tightening the lug nuts on your car.

Eventually it will come loose. You are basically trying to rock it out of there.

Now be warned not always will the plate go back in and stay in. Sometimes the force needed to get it out will warp things and it will not stay in again. At that point you have a dripping atty, but then they kinda leak. So proceed at your own attys risk.

[Thommas]

Thank you for the timely reply. No worries on the 72 hours, I've had it more than two months and it is a hard draw and low vapor. I've tried cleaning it the recommended way, and also using the "sonic vibration" way, but its still not wanting to work properly. I've switched to a drip tip, but that is difficult and unsafe to refill while driving down the freeway.

[Artist Boy]

you are very welcome. I am here to help.

Yes dripping and driving is not safe at all. Please be careful when driving and don't drip. If you do at least wait for a stop sign or red light to redrip.